As with the Project Big Buck Hunter, this project started out by finding the cabinet really cheap on a local trading website (Gumtree).
We picked up the cab and it was in OK-ish condition, some slight water damage and some rust on the controls, some parts missing, no internals.. but it’s SF2, so it’s awesome.
First off, yes it’s an Australian Street Fighter II cabinet that is actually a “World Warrior” version, but I couldn’t find this PCB for a decent price and stumbled across a “The New Challengers” PCB which is pretty rare and it was at a price I couldn’t pass up. So yeah, it’s not 100% correct, but the thing is already a big enough project.
First off I cleaned all the years of storage dirt and dust using some Ajax and then got to ordering the buttons.
I went with:
- 2x Sanwa steel based joysticks
- 12x Sanwa competition grade switches
- 4x Standard back-light LED Buttons
- 1x Jamma Harness
- 1x CPSII Kick Harness (on order still)
Assessing the damages to be repaired.
So there was water damage, locks were rusted in place, speakers were rotten, grill had mass amounts of dust and starting to corrode, bulb in marquee doesn’t work, power supply missing, game board missing, wood starting to de-laminate in places…. At this point I was considering throwing in and LCD and a PC and making a MAME cab.
You can see the marquee is missing bits and the controls were starting to rust.
The clamps in the last pic are holding the wood together with glue, this is how I re-laminated the wood. I applied this same technique to the whole cab using a few tubes of wood glue, heat gun and some more aggressive wind on U-clamps until everything was strong and steady again.
Next was to get the CRT mated to the Chassis and some internals.
The tube is “apparently” OK according to the guy I bought it off, so I’m going to attempt to get it going with the supplied Chassis, worst case I’ll buy a new setup from Jomac since I’ve decided I will in fact restore this cab and not MAME it.
So for now I’ve installed the Chassis to the Tube, I haven’t powered it yet since I’m still to source a power distribution box and step down converter. So the Chassis is installed and wired to the JAMMA harness.
You can see on the second picture where I’ve joined the video from the JAMMA harness to the Chassis, much like when we did the JPAC in Big Buck.
I managed to score a step-down and a power distro box from Aussie Arcades forum.
So basically I have to create a wire with wall socket plug that goes from Mains Power to the 240v Distribution box which contacts a filter and fuses, from here it will be wired to a 110v Step Down Transformer (big brick) which will lower the voltage for the Chassis to power the tube (110v) without damage.
Then I have to install an Arcade Power supply which will supply the 12v to the Arcade PCB and lights / JAMMA Harness etc.
Now on to controls
So the first pic shows my awesome package from OzStick, just ignore the PC components, like I said it WAS going to be MAME.
The next two pictures you can see me test fitting the controls and wiring up the JAMMA Harness, NOTE that only 3 buttons on each control area are wired to the JAMMA harness, this is because the Capcom CPS II system that I’m installing requires a secondary Harness known as a “Kick Harness” this basically allows you to wire in the other 3 buttons (named from kick buttons in a fighter) straight to the Arcade PCB, I’m still trying to source the Kick Harness and might just make one if I cant get one.
They look like this:
The latest problem if you look at the last two pictures side by side is RUST.
The control panel came with some surface rust and it got out of hand really fast while I was waiting on parts to arrive, so I’ll be wire-brushing that all back and sealing it with some clear coat spray paint in a future post.
Finally my Street Fighter II The New Challengers PCB showed up, which is running on the Capcom CP system 2 as I mentioned. I even got the original manual.
That last picture is a coin counter read out which shows 15102 credits have been bought (I think). Which is pretty damn cool.
So the next steps are:
- Wait for kick harness to show up
- Order Arcade 12v Power supply
- Remove surface rust and restore controls
- Restore speakers and amp
- Get a new fluro for the marquee
- Install PCB and get this thing going
We had some spare Raspberry Pi’s laying around and I’ve been wanting to build a NAS / FTP server using one, so instead of using a boring Pi case we decided to build a working BMO complete with MAME emulation and all the other fun features. Once I get sick of playing with BMO he’ll become my NAS using the functionality available in the Raspbian linux distro.
- 1 x Raspberry Pi model B with 32gig SD card
- 1x USB Wifi adapter
- 1x USB powered speaker with small lipo backup battery (BMO’s Voice box)
- 1x 4.8″ TFT LCD Screen for BMO’s face
- 1x USB keyboard encoder for his front buttons (on order)
- 1x Bluetooth keyboard for setting up
- 1x Custom made 3D printed BMO chassis thanks to Pat Harding
Future mods will include controls, more USB ports and functional front buttons on BMO
First up I’ll have to butcher the screen I got off eBay to remove it’s casing to fit in our BMO.
Simple unscrewed the case and used the side cutters to break the cable out (it wouldn’t unplug)
The layout for now until the encoder arrives to make his front buttons work.
This is it for now until we’ve drawn up the model for the 3D printed BMO chassis.
After a quick clean up of the sticker and removing the excess vinyl, I applied it with some painters style white tape and it looks awesome!
I ordered my buttons from OzStick and also got 5 blanks, installing the blanks saves us getting a new piece of perspex for the controls plus it makes it really easy to add in future controls since I have a habit of getting bored with cabinets and re-purposing them, so by adding the blanks it allows me to add in some joysticks for fighting games etc.
Once the buttons and blanks were all nicely lined up and installed I then wired up the power for the back-light LEDs, simply made up a quick positive and ground straight into a PC Molex connector as the LEDs are 12v and this system will be powered by a PC, so we’ll be using the standard PC PSU.
When doing this, the yellow is 12v as per this diagram:
Buttons and LEDs are all nicely installed, just waiting on some M6 x20mm black Allen head bolts to arrive to bolt the control panel down as the final step.
So I moved on to tidying up the wiring to make room for a PC.
Firstly you’ll notice I’ve installed a motherboard tray to easily mount the motherboard, the PSU will go in the upper left area above the tray next to the Sub. In the bottom left you’ll see all the audio cables since we went with an overkill sound system that has full surround support which have now been shortened with zip-ties ready to plug straight into the motherboard jacks.
Finally I tidied up all the wires and mounted the JPAC to some PCB standoffs.
Next steps will be to install the computer components, install the software, get the CRT working and start on the gun!
Super Mario 64 SPEED RUN – 0 Star in 0:06:41 legit non-TAS